Fly Fishing
- The Two Best Wet Wading Shoes
These Shoes Keep the Gravel Out!
About ten years ago I was fishing the Railroad Ranch section of the Henry’s Fork. I was on a trip covering some of the most famous fly fishing water in the west, including such places as the Madison, Nelson Spring Creek, and Yellowstone National Park. I was wet wading the Ranch because it was mid-summer, and it was HOT! I had caught a couple fish earlier in the day a little lower down on the river where the water was broken and it was a little easier fishing. We were now in the smooth water and the fish were rising everywhere. As those of you know who have fished there before, these fish are extremely selective and difficult to catch. Downstream drifts are required or the line/leader will without doubt spook the fish. All my attention should have been on figuring out how to fool those big, beautiful, rising fish. Unfortunately my attention was only half on the fish. The other half was on my feet which were in pain. Real pain. As I said before I was wet wading. My customary apparel while wet wading was REI brand “quick-dry” pants, and Keen sandals. The problem I was facing was that the Henry’s Fork gravel was getting into my Keens between my feet and the soles of the shoes. When I emptied the gravel, which was not easy while standing thigh-deep in the river, it would return within seconds. Gravel would flow in, but it did not flow out. The arches of my feet were in great pain and there was nothing that I could do about it. After hours of frustration and discomfort I eventually left the river.
My wet wading shoes also frequently caused problems for me when I would go on backpacking trips. Often these trips involved walking from camp to an alpine lake several miles away. I almost always leave my boots and waders at home on such trips because of their weight. Instead, I take wet wading shoes on my backpacking trips. In the past I would take my Keen sandals because they are are relatively light, durable, and solid enough to hike in. They did well in almost every aspect except that I’d inevitably end up getting pine needles in the sandals while hiking. Like my Henry’s Fork experience described earlier, this would hurt my feet considerably.
Keen makes great, high quality sandals. The front of the sandals have thick rubber that protects toes extremely well in rivers and on trails when banged against rocks. They are solid, durable, and last a long time. Despite their high quality construction, the fact that gravel and pine needles consistently get into them eventually became a deal-breaker for me in terms of using them for wet wading. This happened about 6 or 7 years ago. It was at that time that my quest to find a better wet wading shoe began.
I first looked to see what other products Keen offered, to see if they had a water shoe with mesh sides to keep gravel out. They had previously offered a version with mesh sides, but for some reason had just discontinued them. The only pair I could find online were ones that were a size to small. I decided to give them a try anyway, but just as you would suspect, they functioned well but my feet hurt because they were too small. Next I settled on a pair of Body Glove water shoes I thought might work. They were light, which appealed to me from a backpacking standpoint. I used them for a couple summers, but in the end they weren’t solid enough. My feet would get sore if there was any hiking involved. That’s not a knock on their quality because I really wasn’t using them as they were intended to be used. Last summer (2023) I went back to the Keen sandals because I still hadn’t found anything better.
This year I finally had a breakthrough. Not only did I find one great solution for wet wading shoes, I found two! They are quite different from each other, but are both far better than the Keen sandals I’ve used in the past. I used them both extensively throughout this last summer. What follows is a quick review of both of them.
Simms Pursuit Shoe
What I really like about the Simms Pursuit is that they are specifically designed for fisherman, and you can tell. They are lightweight shoes (24 oz. per pair) that keep the gravel out. They are very comfortable to wear, much more so than any other wading shoe or boot I’ve ever worn. They are solid shoes, not like some of the water shoes on the market that are really designed for the deck of a boat. These are designed for fisherman, to be used wading rivers. They are breathable and quick-draining. At times this summer I wore them barefoot. At other times, if the water was colder or if I had to do a little hiking, I wore ultra-thin neoprene socks with them. The attribute of Simms Pursuit shoes that I’d like to emphasize the most is that they are very comfortable wet wading shoes.
My only concern when I first bought the Pursuit shoes was the tread on the bottom. Would they slip on wet rocks, and would they hold up while hiking in them. I understand wet wading shoes aren’t necessarily designed to also be hiking shoes, but I sometimes need them to function that way. The answer to the first question above is that the Simms Pursuit shoes function well on wet rocks in rivers and in lakes. They have a better grip than all the wet wading shoes I’ve used in the past. Now, no shoe is perfect, and a slippery rock is a slippery rock. You have to be careful no matter what wading boot or shoe you end up with. That said, they performed well for me while wading. The answer to the second question above, their use while hiking, is that they were not as sturdy as I’d hoped, and that they can slip on rock and gravel when scrambling around alpine lakes. In fairness, they’re not hiking boots! However, if that is something that you sometimes may require, there may be a better solution that I’ll discuss in the next section below.
In summary, I highly recommend the Simms Pursuit wading shoes. I believe you will really like these shoes if most of your time will be spent in the water or on a drift boat, as opposed to hiking or scrambling around high mountain terrain. They look great, they are extremely comfortable, they keep the gravel out, and they function as they should. Simms Pursuit shoes typically retail for around $140 and can be found at many retail outlets. They really are a high-quality wet wading shoe!
Salomon Techamphibian 5 Water Shoe
The other wet wading shoes I used extensively this last summer were the Salomon Techamphibian 5. I gave them a try because I’ve used Salomon hiking boots for years and I believe in the quality of Salomon products. Also, the Techamphibians have a sole that is essentially the sole of a hiking boot. That stood out to me when I was doing my research. A typical scenario for me is to begin wet wading near where I park my truck, but then to finish the day several miles away. It is very common for me to have a long hike back that requires sturdy shoes. Another common scenario for me where my selection of shoes is important is on our backpacking trips. The high mountain lakes we fish are often several miles from our camp. In situations like that I either need to wear my hiking boots and carry my wet wading shoes with me, or I need water shoes that can also function as hiking boots. Salomon Techamphibian water shoes work perfectly in both of the situations I just described.
Salomon Techamphibians are relatively light (21 oz. per pair). The outsoles are solid, durable, and have excellent grip on slippery terrain. The upper section is made of a mesh that dries quickly and keeps the gravel and pine needles out. The heel is collapsible for versatility and ease of getting in and out of them. As with any Salomon product, these are high quality shoes. They typically retail for around $110 which is not terribly expensive.
One comment that I frequently read while researching these shoes was that they are quite narrow and that they are not as comfortable as other shoes. I agree with this comment. When I first tried them on I felt they were too uncomfortable to keep, but here’s what happened. Some of you may know that my “day job” is working for the Colorado Rockies baseball team. When I placed my order for these shoes I used my Rockies email address. That fact did not go unnoticed by the person filling my order. Whoever filled it, their child wrote Go Rockies and drew the Rockies logo all over the shipping box. They were so excited to send it to me that I didn’t have the heart to send the shoes back. I kept them, and I’m thankful that I did! I’ve been able to adjust the straps, and break in the shoes to the point that they are no longer uncomfortable to wear. Still not as comfortable as my Simms Pursuit shoes are, but they do just fine. Especially if I’m wearing thin socks or neoprene socks while hiking. The key though, as I’ve said, is the treads on them. I went on quite a few trips last summer where I hiked many miles in them to high mountain lakes. They did a wonderful job on steep, slippery, slopes where it was absolutely critical that my shoes did not slide. They functioned extremely well on rough terrain and over many miles of trails. However, if you have wide feet these may not be the shoes for you.
Conclusion
I recommend both the Simms Pursuit and the Salomon Techamphibian 5 water shoes for wet wading. The best solution is to have both available so that you can pick which shoes make the most sense for the specific trip you’re taking them on. That’s pretty expensive though. If I had to choose only one pair, I’d probably give the nod to the Simms Pursuit shoes because of their comfort. On hiking trips to alpine lakes I’d wear hiking boots and pack the Simms Pursuits to the lake if I felt I needed wading shoes. What I recommend is to find a store that sells both, or order both of them and have them sent to your house. See which ones you prefer and that fit best, and return the other pair. That is how you will really know which ones to buy.
Simms Pursuit and Salomon Techamphibians are both high quality shoes, so you really can’t go wrong. They’ll both do the job. Still, make sure whichever ones you choose are comfortable and won’t hurt your feet. You will enjoy not having gravel and pine needles constantly in between your feet and the soles of your shoes. It has made a huge difference for me.
- Is Czech Nymphing With Mono Fly Fishing?
Its Effectiveness Can’t Be Denied!
The question of whether or not Czech nymphing is really fly fishing is an incredibly hot topic right now. The August/September 2024 issue of Fly Fisherman magazine features an article on monofilament rigs, and their divisiveness within the fly fishing community. I just read today that April Vokey is going to host a podcast on the topic of Czech nymphing this weekend with some very celebrated expert guests, including Kelly Galloup. I’m looking forward to listening to this one and expect it to be a lot of fun! Her podcasts are always interesting and informative, focusing on current and relevant topics. I highly recommend all of April Vokey’s podcasts. Wherever anglers today turn for information today, whether to magazines or podcasts, the topic of Czech nymphing is sure to come up eventually.
The goal of Czech nymphing, also called Euro nymphing, is to get the fly down to the stream bottom as quickly as possible because that is where most of the fish are. What is different about Czech nymphing is that fly line is often not used, rather a long section of monofilament takes its place. If fly line is on the reel, it rarely extends past the tip of the rod. The fly is cast towards the upper end of a run and is led through the hole by the angler, always keeping the line tight, but without pulling the fly unnaturally through the run. There is no debate about the effectiveness of Czech nymphing. In fact, It is the clear method of choice for catching fish in international fishing competitions today.
The first and most obvious question that needs to be asked is, “what is fly fishing”. Once that is defined it becomes quite easy to either include or exclude various methods of fishing into the fly fishing category. The trouble is that there is no universally accepted, clear and absolute, definition of what constitutes fly fishing. Therefore, there’s not a clear answer on what fishing methods should or shouldn’t be included. In other words, there is no correct or final answer to the debate, only opinions.
With that in mind, I thought that I might as well throw my hat in the ring and have some fun with this topic. What follows now is my own personal definition of what fly fishing is. Once defined, you’ll see whether or not I consider Czech nymphing to be fly fishing.
Using Flies
A method of fishing should not be considered fly fishing simply because a fly is used. Let’s consider this example. When I was a little kid my dad often set me up with a spinning rod rigged with a fly and bubble. To this day I enjoy fishing like this, thought I don’t do it often. I like filling the bubble up with water and seeing how far I can launch the fly and bubble rig out into a lake. After casting, I’ll either let the fly set there until I get a strike or I’ll slowly retrieve the fly giving it movement. It’s a fun way to fish. If the bubble is filled completely it will sink, which brings fishing wooly buggers and other sub-surface patterns into play. Fishing with a fly and bubble can become complex as anglers learn to control the depth of the bubble by adding water or draining water out of it.
Is spin fishing with a fly and bubble considered fly fishing simply because a fly is at the end of the line? I don’t think so. Let me give you an analogy. Say I’m in a game of dodge ball, and there are all kinds of balls being tossed around. Nerf balls, wiffle balls, those red kickballs we used to play with, etc. If one of the balls out there happens to be a baseball, and I pick it up and throw it at the competition, am I all of a sudden playing baseball not dodgeball? Of course not. I’d simply be playing dodgeball, with a baseball. In the same way, if someone is spin fishing with a spinning rod and they decided to put a fly on instead of a lure, they aren’t all of a sudden fly fishing. They’re simply spin fishing with a fly.
Here’s another more extreme example. An angler is out on a deep lake. He or she sets the rod in a rod holder. Next, a down-rigger is used to drop the line to the bottom of the lake, and then the rig is trolled slowly out in the middle of the lake waiting for a fish to bite. Towards the end of the line cowbells are attached to attract fish. At the end of the line is a baitfish fly pattern. Would you consider that type of fishing to be fly fishing on the basis of a fly being used? I don’t think so.
I use both of these examples to illustrate that fly fishing can’t simply be defined as any method of fishing that employs a fly to attract and catch fish. There has to be more to it than that.
Fly Rod
Now let’s take a look at fishing equipment to see if that will help add clarity to the discussion. Does the use of certain equipment define what fly fishing is? Conventional and traditional thought would be that an angler is fly fishing if he or she is using a fly rod and reel, with fly line, to cast a fly. Let’s look at each piece of equipment individually.
Does the use of a fly rod constitute fly fishing? To answer that question let’s consider a few more scenarios. If I put a spinning reel onto a fly rod, string the mono through the eyelets, and attach a heavy lure to the line such as a spoon or spinner, and cast it out – is that fly fishing? Or, if instead of a lure I attach a fly and bubble – is that fly fishing? I don’t think so because the reel and cast is that of a spinning rig, even though a fly rod is being used instead of a spinning rod. The casting motion is still that of spin fishing and so is the lure. What propels the cast is the weight of the lure itself.
Once again, here’s a more extreme scenario to help us look at this from a different perspective, perhaps beginning to shed light on what fly fishing actually is. Say I find an eight foot branch or stick that can hardly flex at all. To the end of it I attach a section of fly line, tippet, and a fly. Next I start waiving the stick back and forth, using the weight of the fly line to propel the fly out into a body of water in search of fish. Is that fly fishing? I would say that even though a fly rod is not being used, it’s starting to look and feel a lot more like fly fishing.
All this to say, I don’t think the type of rod necessarily defines something as either fly fishing or not fly fishing
Fly Reel
If it’s not the rod that defines a particular fishing method as fly fishing, is it the use of a fly reel? I think we’re getting closer, but we’re not there yet. A fly reel is about the most simple type of reel there is. Some fly reels have nice disc drags. Others, such as click and pawl reels, have almost no drag at all. Click and pawl reels have a mechanism to keep the reel from back-spooling, but that’s about it. When it comes right down to it, a fly reel is really not much more than a spool attached to the rod with the purpose of holding the line. I don’t mean to put down fly reels. In fact, the fly reel is my absolute favorite piece of fly fishing equipment because of their wonderful beauty and craftmanship!
So, is the use of a fly reel what constitutes fly fishing? To answer that question, let me give you yet another illustration. What if I didn’t have a reel at all! What if I took fly line & tippet and strung it through the eyelets of a fly rod, and took the other end of the fly line and tied it to the butt section of the rod. A reel is not even present. All the excess fly line is coiled up by my feet. Then, if I cast the fly out with the rod, letting line out by hand and stripping the line in by hand, would that be considered fly fishing? I would answer that question “yes”. I’d just be doing it without the help of a reel.
That’s about the most simple way I can think of to illustrate that the fly reel is not what defines a method of fishing as fly fishing. Now, as I mentioned a few paragraphs earlier, I think we’re getting closer……
Fly Line
Fly line is weighted, as we all know. It is the weight of the line, not the fly, that allows a fly cast to work and propel the fly out into a lake or stream. This is different than casting a lure, or bubble, or bait with monofilament line. When monofilament is used it is the weight of the lure combined with the flex of the rod that propels it out into a lake or stream.
The weight of the line is what makes the physics of a fly cast work. It’s also at the heart of what makes fly casting artistic and beautiful. Loops are created during the cast that unfold as the line extends out towards the target. It is the fly line, and the fly cast that is unique to fly fishing when compared to other methods of fishing. This is the key!
The Cast
After considering all of the various types of fly fishing equipment, and the flies themselves, I believe that it is the fly cast that really defines what fly fishing is. It is what sets it apart and differentiates it from other methods of fishing. Of course the fly cast works best using a fly rod and reel, but it certainly cannot work without weighted fly line. It is the weigh of the line, combined with the flex of the rod, that makes the physics of fly casting work. There are multiple ways of casting a fly. In addition to the traditional one-handed cast, there’s spay casting, roll casting, backhand casting, just to name a few. What they all have in common is the use of weighted line.
Now it’s time to come full circle and answer the question, what is fly fishing? How is it defined? I would define fly fishing as the casting of a fly using the weight of the line, not the weight of the fly, to propel the fly towards its target. It’s all about the cast – that’s what makes fly fishing what it is. Without weighted fly line you simply can’t have a fly cast.
The Verdict
Back to the original question: Is Czech nymphing with mono really fly fishing? My answer to that question is “no”, based on how I have defined fly fishing. Even though a type of fly rod is utilized, even though a type of fly is put before the fish, the use of monofilament in Czech nymphing disqualifies it as fly fishing. By my definition, weighted line must be used.
Let me conclude by giving you another analogy. Now remember, no analogy is perfect. They are only given to help illustrate a point. I grew up playing a lot of baseball. In fact, my career has been spent working for a Major League baseball team, the Colorado Rockies. After I was done playing baseball I played a lot of softball. Like baseball, softball is played with bats and balls. In both sports the pitcher tries to throw the ball past the batter, who is trying to get a hit. The object of both sports is to score as many runs as possible by running around the bases and making it all the way to home plate. The two sports are obviously very closely related, yet to those who have played both it is clear they are not the same. Softball is not baseball. There are more runs scored in softball because a softball is easier to hit. It is pitched underhand and the ball is twice as big. Similarly, in Czech nymphing more fish are caught as the weighted fly is led across the river bottom where most of the fish are.
Now, as someone who has played a lot of baseball, I can tell you that hitting a softball is not the same as hitting a baseball – it just feels different. In the same way, to those of us who have been fly fishing all our lives, pulling a Czech nymph through a hole with mono is not the same as fly fishing – it just feels different.
That’s my take on the debate surrounding Czech fishing with monofilament. This is all fun conversation, but really the question should be what type of fishing do you enjoy most. Then go do that! As long as it’s done in a way that is not harmful to the environment, one method of fishing isn’t any better or worse than another.
- 10 Ideas for Fly Fishing Solitude
How to Avoid the Crowds!
We’ve probably all had this experience at one time or another. We’re wade-fishing a beautiful river, greatly enjoying the sights and sounds of the outdoors as we work a promising hole. We’ve also been looking upstream as we plot our future course, looking forward to the fishing to come. Then, all of a sudden, a group comes in and sets-up fishing in the very next hole above you, the prime spot you’d been so much looking forward to. Then, before you know it, another group slots-in right behind you. Now you’re pinned-in and future movement on the water will be very limited. This is a common scenario on many popular waters as the sport of fly fishing has become more and more popular.
Contrast that scenario with the other extreme. You and your buddies have just reached a remote lake, deep in the wilderness. You had an outfitter take you in on horseback 10 miles from the trailhead, which was itself quite remote. Then your group backpacked an additional 10 miles the next day to a remote chain of alpine lakes and headwater steams. The lakes and streams are yours alone, as is the opportunity to catch unpressured trout that have likely never seen a fly before! You’re 20 miles from the nearest trailhead, and there likely are only a few people within many miles of you. Check out my books on Spot Pack Flyfishing if this type of extreme sounds appealing to you.
Those are two extreme scenarios. There are some practical ways by which fly anglers can find fishing opportunities that lie somewhere between the two. They are planned and intentional steps that anglers can take to find great fishing and avoid water that is overcrowded. One piece of fishing etiquette that I’d like to offer, before listing my 10 ideas for fly fishing solitude, is that if you arrive at a lake or stream and see other anglers, try to give them space if at all possible. That doesn’t mean to give them room in the hole they’re in and to jump in the one right above them. It means giving them several holes, room to advance up the stream, if possible.
Here are my top 10 ideas!
1 – Distance yourself from the parking lot: Obvious, right? This means to hike, or better yet backpack, a minimum half-mile away from where everyone else is parked. Often, the further you get from the parking lot or trailhead the better the fishing will be. A great example of this is in a place like Yellowstone National Park. It’s a place I try to go every year, if possible. There are millions of people in the park every summer. Yet, those who are willing to walk a mile from the parking lot will leave 95% of the crowds behind. Of those 5%, probably only 1% (or less) are dedicated fly anglers. This also works on popular rivers. Plan on walking at least a half mile, even committing to bypassing holes that look good, because you know the area close to the parking lot will fill up with anglers. Backpacking, obviously, will further remove you from the crowds. Be careful though, if you pack to a well known destination you still might be surprised to find a lot of people there as well.
2 – 4-Wheel drive and disburse camp: First of all, the further you can drive or fly away from a major population center the better. Next you’ll want to make sure you get off from any major interstates and explore. Now, let’s take it even a step further. Go to water only accessible by dirt roads. If you have a 4-wheel drive vehicle, using high clearance only roads will even further remove you from crowded fishing areas. For years our family has planned trips using the DeLorme Colorado Atlas & Gazetteer which has very detailed maps, clearly showing roads that are 4-wheel drive and high clearance only. A similar gazetteer is available for most states. Be prepared to camp when you get there. Such a long drive to such an area will likely require overnight stays. Besides, once there you won’t want to come out right away anyway.
3 – Fish on weekdays: Not much description is required for this suggestion, other than to say there are far many more people camping, backpacking, and fishing on the weekends. National Parks may not be impacted in quite the same way because visitors to the parks are often there for extended stays. National Parks can be busy seven days a week.
4 – Access private water: Here are five ways to gain access to private water; 1) rent a cabin where access to private water is included, 2) hire a fishing guide that can take you to water that is private, 3) join a fly fishing club that has leases on private water, 4) gain access from a friend owns or has access to private water, or 5) buy your own riverfront or lakefront property.
The points above I’d like to highlight are the first and the fourth ones. Regarding cabin rentals, often when planning an overnight trip anglers either camp in the national forest or book a hotel room in a town close to the water they want to fish. Consider taking the time to look online for rental cabins on property that includes private water access. My friends and I have done just that each of the last two years. We booked a cabin, on one of the most famous rivers in the state, that granted us access to over a mile of the river. It cost us a little more than a hotel would have cost, but it has been well worth it.
Regarding joining a fishing club, for a long time I told myself I would never pay to fish. After all, there is so much publicly accessible land with fishable water on it. The problem for me is that so many people have moved to Colorado that the public access points on our good rivers almost always draw a crowd. I told my wife one time that I was thinking of joining one of these fly fishing clubs when I retired. After all, it’s not that different from joining a golf club or something like that. To my complete surprise, she said I ought to do it now! Her argument was that now is when I need it. I almost always go fishing on weekends, like everybody else, because I’m working from Monday through Friday. Once retired, I’ll be able to go during the week when there aren’t as many people. It made perfect sense, so I accepted an offer from a friend to join a club with him. I discovered that it’s wonderful to fish private water. There’s a whole different mentality, that’s more relaxed, never having to worry if the good holes are already taken or will soon be taken. Another advantage is that good sections aren’t fished every day. Instead they are often given rest between bookings.
5 – Buy or borrow some kind of boat or watercraft for lakes: There are all kinds of shapes, sizes, and costs of lake watercraft. Options include nice boats with motors, kayaks, canoes, pontoon boats, and float tubes. The key here is to get off crowded shorelines and gain access to the entire lake. My family grew up with a canoe that we would take turns in on various lakes. While others appeared to be relegated to spots on shore we always had freedom of movement to go up and down shorelines, varying our distance from shore, to find where the fishing was best.
Buying some form of watercraft doesn’t have to be an expensive option. Float tubes, for example, can be very inexpensive. I used a float tube for years, kicking around many lakes. The advantage of a float tube is that your rod is always in your hand to set the hook on strikes. The disadvantage is the work of having to kick around lakes. My father bought himself a single person pontoon boat when they first became available. Rowing across a lake appeared so much easier than kicking my way across, so I followed his lead and bought my own. I decided upon the Skykomish Sunrise made be Dave Scadden. I love that boat, and highly recommend it. I’ve had wonderful days with my dog sitting on the platform behind me while I fished. I have a lot of stories about that, but will have to save them for another day. Lastly, fishing kayaks have become very popular. I can’t really speak to them because I’ve never been in one, but they’re most definitely an option to consider.
6 – Float a river: Floating a river can be another way to leave the crowds behind. Be careful though, because on certain rivers, like the Green and the Madison, river traffic can be significant and you might still feel quite crowded. Floating a river is a lot of fun. I grew up walk-and-wade fishing and am just now learning to float and fish rivers effectively. I have a Dave Scadden Dragonfly XT2 that has been an excellent boat. It has many positive traits, but also some limitations as well. Whether or not it’s the right boat for you depends entirely on how it’s intended to be used, and in what situations.
7- Fish smaller tributaries: Another suggestion for avoiding crowds is to fish tributaries and smaller headwater streams as opposed to prominent rivers. The fish will likely be smaller on average, thought that’s not always the case. Fish can grow to respectable sizes even in small streams as long as there are pools deep enough for them to live in year-round and if there is plentiful food. Headwater streams in close proximity to lakes may also hold nice migratory fish. However, even though nice sized fish are possible, it’s still much more likely you’ll be fishing for smaller fish when fishing smaller water. The choice then becomes, what do you prefer? Would you rather catch a 12″ cutthroat in a small headwater stream you have all to yourself or an 18″ rainbow out of a more crowded river. There is no right or wrong answer because both are fun.
8 – Giving others space will by definition give you yourself space: At the beginning of this article I mentioned the etiquette of giving others space when you first arrive at your fishing destination. There will be a benefit for you when following this practice. It may give you additional elbow-room as well.
9 – Seek advice of fly shops and friends with experience fly fishing: Local fly shop’s are used to giving out information on the famous waters in their areas, but don’t be afraid to specifically ask them about water in their areas that are more off the beaten path. Good fly shops will have this local knowledge. It will help them if you tell them what you’re looking for. If it’s less crowded water, let them point you in the right direction. If you have friends who have been fishing a long time you might want to ask them as well.
10 – Trout Routs App: A couple years ago I bought the TroutRoutes app at the Denver Fly Fishing Show. There is a cost, but it is extremely helpful in terms of identifying what sections of a river are private, and what sections have public access. When planning a trip to a specific destination, check out the app. There may be a little section where you’re going that is public that not many people know about. Give it a try. You might stumble upon a great piece of uncrowded water because people simply don’t know they’re allowed to fish it.
- Fly Fishing Gear Checklist
Thorough, Detailed, Prepared!
The question of what fly fishing equipment to take on a backpacking trip is an interesting one. For us serious fly fisherman, the last thing we want is to be caught without a crucial piece of equipment. On the other hand, taking unnecessary equipment is to be avoided because of its weight and having to pack it around with you throughout the trip. Somehow as fly anglers we need to strike the correct balance between the two.
I choose to error on the side of making sure I’ll have all the equipment I’ll need. After all, for me, fly fishing is the primary activity. I try to think through each scenario. For example, will I be fishing stillwaters or streams? Will I need sinking line as well as floating? Do I have a backup plan if a rod breaks? Will I be away from camp all day and need to carry additional gear? What flies will I need? How can I save weight by condensing flies, which weigh next to nothing, into only a few fly boxes. I save a few pounds by using DIY fly rod cases instead of manufacturer cases.
Below is a list of the specific fly fishing equipment I’ve settled on in over forty years of wilderness fishing trips. Look for future posts reviewing each of these items. I’ll discuss what I like and what I don’t like about each of them, as well as which other manufacturers I considered. As I mentioned in my backpacking gear checklist post, I save weight with other equipment choices so that I can take all the fly fishing gear I may need.
Fly Rods – I always take two rods with me on backcountry fishing trips. The type of rods that I take depends on the trip destination. When packing into alpine lakes I take a heavier 6-weight rod that is more effective on lakes as well as a lighter 3- or 4-weight rod for smaller headwater streams. High lakes are known for their wind and having a rod that can push through wind is helpful. They are also more effective casting weighted lines and heavy streamers. On backcountry river trips a 3- or 4-weight as well as a 5-weight rod is a good combination, depending on the size of the river and the expected size of the fish.
3 wt. – Sage VT2
4 wt. – Hardy Shadow
5 wt. – Hardy Zephrus
6 wt. – Fenwick Aetos
Fly Rod Case (Backpacking) – DIY rod case using fluorescent tube guard T12 (4 oz)
Fly Rod Case (Truck Camping) – Manufacturer provided rod case (15-19 oz depending on case)
Reels – As you can see, I prefer click & pawl reels.
3 wt. – Hardy Marquis 5
4 wt. – Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect
5 wt. – Hardy 1939 Bougle
6 wt. – Hardy 100th Anniversary Flyweight
Line – Picking fly lines has gotten complicated, to say the least. I prefer Triangle Taper for casting dry flies, which I usually am with lighter rods. As the rods get heavier, and I begin casting more streamers and weighted flies, with wind, I prefer a more all-purpose line.
3 wt. – Royal Wulff Triangle Taper
4 wt. – Royal Wulff Triangle Taper
5 wt. – Airflo Super Dry River & Stream
6 wt. – Scientific Angler MPX
6 wt. Sinking Line (If backpacking to alpine lakes) – Rio Avid Trout
Wet Wading Pants – REI Sahara Convertible Pants
Wet Wading Shoes (If day hiking expected) – Salomon Techamphibian 5
Wet Wading Shoes (If minimal day hiking expected) – Simms Pursuit Shoe
Waders and Boots (Rarely taken backpacking) – Frogg Togg waders, Orvis boots. My boots and waders are so old I don’t even remember the specific product name of either. They’ve lasted 10+ years because I almost always wet wade. I do intend to buy new waders and boots soon, and will update this post when I do.
Vest (Alpine Lake Trips) – Master Sportsman
Hip/Waist Pack (Backcountry River Trips) – Fishpond Switchback 2.0
Net – Wooden Signature Concepts catch & release
Water Filter Bottle –Katadyn BeFree
Polarized Glasses – Oakley prescription
Hat – Various baseball hats
Flies – Various
Ancillary Items – Nippers, floatant, leader packs, tippet, indicators, split shot, forceps
- Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect
The Best Fly Reel Money Can Buy!
The Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect is my favorite reel that I’ve ever fished with. It’s not even close.
About 7 years ago I was hiking off-trail to a secret lake in Colorado where my friends and I fish together. Somewhere along the way I lost the tip to my Sage rod. I tried retracing my steps, but there was no chance of finding it in all that forest. Simply no chance at all. Oh well, time to buy a new fly rod! After a lot of research, I settled on a Hardy Zephrus. That’s when I discovered Hardy products for myself and dove headfirst into the Hardy “rabbit hole”. Now, many Hardy rods and reels later, I wouldn’t fish with anything else.
Of course I’d heard of Hardy reels growing up. They were always known as the best when it came to upper-end reels, along with Abel reels. For quite some time now there have been many manufacturers that make wonderful, beautiful, and high quality reels. In many ways it’s hard to make a bad choice when buying a reel today. Most are made with such fine precision and functionality.
This article is about the Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect reel. The Narrow Spool Perfect was not the first Hardy reel I’ve owned, but it is now definitely my favorite. I own most of their classic throwback reels like most anglers do who go down this path. Hardy reels are somehow different in this way. You won’t find people collecting all the offerings of other brands. With Hardy reels people do. There’s just something about them. Though I collect them, let’s make something clear. I don’t buy them to put them into a case or display on a wall, even though they’re beautiful enough to do so. They fish!
Fishing a Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect is like driving a classic Ferrari. It’s vintage and it’s luxury. Sure you can find quality reels for $100 that function well enough to catch fish. So also will a Kia get you from point A to point B. The question is what would you rather drive? What would you enjoy more? Which one gives you a thrill every time you get behind the wheel. I’ve never actually driven a Ferrari, but I have fished a Narrow Spool Perfect!
Positives
To this day, every time I put on my Narrow Spool Perfect I get excited. The longer I fish, and I’ve fished a long time, the more I realize it’s not about a fish count. It’s about the people & places. I also realize that fly fishing is an art. It’s classic. It’s beautiful. This reel fits that picture. It has a classic, vintage, and nostalgic look. It is the perfect reel that completes the picture when fishing a place like Yellowstone’s Slough Creek for cutthroat trout with a close friend.
The Narrow Spool Perfect is a beautiful and traditional reel, but also has been crafted for modern day high performance. It is manufactured in Alnwick England with titanium materials and stainless steel ball bearings. The result is an incredibly smooth reel. As a friend of mine likes to say, “smooth like butter.” It is precision forged from bar stock aluminum and has a hand polished, deep anodized finish. This makes it lightweight and durable. In summary, it’s a beautiful, high performing, smooth reel that’s lightweight and durable.
The Narrow Spool Perfect has, as the name implies, a narrow spool. This is as compared to the Hardy Perfect reel. For trout fishing, and specifically dry fly fishing, this has advantages. The narrow spool means that although it’s not a large arbor reel it still picks up line quickly.
Lastly, I’m thrilled by the sound the reel makes every time a fish makes a run and the line zings out. One of the great thrills of fly fishing is the sound of a reel when a fish makes a run. This reel accentuates that. The sound of the reel is due to it’s “Click & Pawl” design, which brings me to my next section…
Click and Pawl Reel
The Hardy Narrow Spool reel is a click and pawl reel. That’s important to know! Technically it does have a drag system, but one only strong enough to keep the reel from “back-spooling”. From a practical standpoint it functions as if there isn’t one. A fly fisher wanting to slow down the run of a trout will need to use his or her hand and “palm” the reel.
I like this. In fact, I’d argue that for trout fishing you don’t really need a drag. I’ve lost fish in the past using reels with drags that were either too strong or weren’t smooth. In all my years fishing click pawl reels I’ve never lost a fish because it didn’t have a drag. If anything, it means the fish will run a little longer and a little more often. I like that! A fish pulling out line is one of the most exciting sounds in fly fishing. The largest fish I’ve ever caught was a 27” rainbow caught on a Hardy Perfect reel, without a strong drag.
Back to the car analogy. Fishing a click and pawl reel is like driving a manual instead of an automatic. At first it takes a little more thought. It’s a little more to “manage” when beginning. Once used to it, it’s not any more difficult and the driver/fisherman actually feels more engaged in the process.
I read a comment while doing some research for this article that I agree with. A guide out of Montana made it very clear he wouldn’t suggest a click pawl reel for someone who’s learning how to fly fish. His reasoning was that beginners do not know how much pressure to put on the line. They either tighten up and break the fish off, or they go too light and they play the fish too long. I agree, and especially if they’re on big water with big fish.
The Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect isn’t a reel for a first-time fly fisherman anyway. For the reasons just mentioned above, but also simply because of the price point. These are expensive reels. No, this reel is for a more experienced angler who knows how to play a fish and is more interested in the craft and the art of fly fishing. For someone who’s never fly fished I’d recommend a reel more like a Lamson Liquid S. I would recommend a Hardy Marquis, Ross Colorado, Abel TR, Orvis C.F.O, or Orvis Battenkill to someone wanting a click and pawl who’s never fished one before just because of the price point.
Negatives
The Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect is an expensive reel. You certainly don’t need to spend this much money on a reel to get the job done. My counterpoint to this is that it will last a long, long time because it’s so well made. At least that’s the best rationale I could come up with when explaining to my wife I had just bought another reel. But seriously, ten years after purchasing it you’re not going to even think about what the reel cost but you’ll still love using it.
It’s a click and pawl reel. For some, that’s a positive. For others, it’s a negative. A click and pawl reel is not for you if you like a silent reel. These make some noise. Personally, I think it’s a beautiful sound, but it’s certainly not silent. Click and pawl also means there is very little drag as discussed previously. Don’t buy this reel if you want a disc drag system that can crank down on the fish. Consider the Hardy Sovereign if you’d like a vintage style Hardy reel that incorporates a disc drag. Hardy has just reintroduced them, though I haven’t used one yet.
You can find lighter reels than the Narrow Spool perfect. In fact, Hardy offers some that feel almost weightless. I enjoy ultralight backpacking, but I laugh at the push for ultralight gear in fly fishing. Personally, I think it’s a gimmick by manufacturers to justify their newest rods and reels. Some of you may recall the old, yellow, Eagle Claw rods that could be either a spinning rod or fly rod depending on how you attached the butt section. As a kid my arm was exhausted at the end of the day when I used that rod fly fishing. That’s not the case with recent fly rods and reels. How often have you finished the day on a river and said to your fishing partner, “Wow-my arm is tired! I sure with I had a rod that was 1 ounce lighter!” There are lighter reels available than the Narrow Spool Perfect, but this reel is certainly not too heavy.
Lastly, the Narrow Spool Perfect is a traditional arbor reel. It’s not a large arbor reel. That means it will not pick up line as quickly, though its narrow spool design helps with this. Also, its retrieve is not interchangeable between right and left hand. Fly fishers who are right-handed (meaning they cast with their right and reel with their left) need to order a left-hand retrieve.
Conclusion
I’m not picking a reel just to get compliments from other fly fisherman, though people do notice this one. What matters to me is what I feel when I rig up and fish it. How does it function and do I enjoy using it. The Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect is the smoothest reel I’ve ever owned. The craftmanship is exceptional. The click and pawl design has me thoroughly engaged with each fish I hook into, especially the big ones. The sound it makes when a fish makes a run is music to my ears, something I think about during those cold winter months. In summary, the Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect reel is a thrill to fish – like driving a Ferrari.
Author’s Note: Hardy has discontinued offering this specific Narrow Spool Perfect Reel. In its place, they are offering the Hardy 1912 Perfect Fly Reel. It has the same narrow spool design but also incorporates a red agate color line guard. Hardy’s throwback reels are offered for a limited time so this is not uncommon. It also means you should buy one of these while it’s still availabe!
To find out pricing and to order a Hardy 1912 Perfect Fly Reel, or any of the other reels mentioned in this article (Hardy Marquis, Hardy Sovereign, Ross Colorado, Abel TR, Orvis C.F.O. III, Orvis Battenkill, Lamson Liquid S), click the Trident Fly Fishing link below.
- Hardy Marquis
High Quality, Moderately Priced!
The first fly reel I ever purchased on my own was a Scientific Angler, System One. I used it almost exclusively during the first 20 years of my fly-fishing career. It was basic, reliable, durable, and caught many fish. I loved that reel! I wasn’t the only one. The System One was one of the most popular reels of the time. Finally, a gromet holding one of the “pawls” in place loosened and the reel stopped working. I still have my beloved reel and intend to someday find somebody, a jeweler perhaps, who can fix it.
About 5 years ago I was shopping for a new reel for a new Hardy Zephrus fly rod I had just bought. That’s when I saw the Hardy Marquis for the first time. I had to do a double take because it looked so much like my good old Scientific Angler System One. After doing a little research I found it wasn’t a coincidence. I discovered that Hardy had involvement in the making of the Scientific Angler reel. It’s no wonder they’re so much alike. Of course I had to buy the Marquis to try it out. I had to replace the one I had grown up with for sentimental reasons, if for nothing else.
The Hardy Marquis is in fact very much like my old Scientific Angler System One fly reel. The only significant difference being that it’s more modern and therefore made with lighter, higher quality, materials. It’s also a little narrower, which I like. It has a slightly different dial to control the “drag”, but in appearance only. It works the same way. In fact, the inside of each reel looks almost identical.
I recommend going up a size or two for the rod/line you’re matching. For example, I use a Marquis 6 for my 5-wt Zephrus rod that I mentioned earlier. I use a Marquis 5 for my 3-wt. Sage rod. The larger Marquis will feel more natural in your hand while reeling in line. I never buy a reel less than 3 inches in diameter. I have big hands, so a reel that small just doesn’t feel right. You’ll need a little more than the recommended length of backing so that by the time the fly line is added it will properly reach the edge of the reel.
Don’t laugh, but there’s something quirky I sometimes do when I buy new fishing equipment that I’m especially excited about. I won’t always use the equipment right away. I’ll often wait to break it in on a big trip that I’ve been looking forward to or at a place that is special to me. After all, I wouldn’t want to use a special, brand new Hardy Zephrus rod and Hardy Marquis reel on my little hometown creek and have its first fish be a little 6” brown, right? I first used my Zephrus and Marquis on a favorite lake high-up in the Wind River mountains. I still remember…..my first cast caught a beautiful 16” cutthroat in a spectacular setting, at sunset, surrounded by my closest friends. I was absolutely beaming on the inside from the whole experience. I still remember the moment and will never forget it!
Click and Pawl Reel
It’s important to know before buying a Hardy Marquis that it’s a click and pawl reel. Click pawl reels get their name from the metal tooth, or “pawl”, that is attached to the spool. The pawl “clicks” against a gear that is also attached to the spool as it rotates. To some, the click sound of a click pawl reel when a fish runs is one of the sweetest sounds in fly fishing.
There is almost no drag, or stopping power, with a Hardy Marquis because it is a click pawl reel. A fly angler wanting to slow down the run of a trout will need to use his or her hand and “palm” the reel. As a result, there’s another level of engagement for anglers playing a fish with a Marquis fly reel. It’s a throwback to fishing in the past where it was simply man vs. fish. Ok, that may be a little overdramatic, but you get the idea.
The Hardy Marquis is the least expensive of Hardy’s click pawl reels. That makes it a good “starter” reel in this category. It was for me. Now I have seven different types of Hardy click pawl reels, with my Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect being my absolute favorite. There are other high quality click pawl reels on the market you may want to consider as well, including the Ross Colorado, Abel TR, Sage Click, Orvis C.F.O III, and the Orvis Battenkill. All of these manufacturers are known for their quality, just like Hardy is.
Positives
Hardy is famous for their craftmanship and the quality of their reels. The Marquis has a classic, nostalgic, fly-fishing appearance and is the least expensive of the Hardy traditional click and pawl reel offerings. Hardy Marquis reels are manufactured in Alnwick England and are precision forged from bar stock aluminum and utilize titanium materials in the click pawl system. They have a deep anodized finish. All of this makes them both lightweight and durable. The Marquis is a beautiful and simple reel made by a company known for its quality.
The Hardy Marquis has a sweet “click” sound when fish go on their runs and while you’re reeling them in. It is a great entry level click pawl reel due to the combination of its quality and its price point. I’ll warn you though, when it comes to Hardy reels a lot of people end up with a whole collection of them. This may be your first Hardy reel but you’ll likely end up with more than just one. They’re fun to collect if you enjoy reels like I do.
The Marquis is a narrow fly reel as I mentioned earlier. I like this from an aesthetics point of view, but there’s also a functional reason for this. The narrow spool allows the angler to pick up line more quickly. The Marquis has a traditional arbor size as opposed to a large arbor. Large arbors are currently a popular choice because they pick up line more quickly, but the narrowness of the spool helps the Marquis in this regard. Never once have I thought to myself that my Marquis was taking too much time as I reeled in a fish, though I wouldn’t go smaller than a 3” diameter Marquis as mentioned previously.
Negatives
The Marquis is not a quiet reel. They make some noise. For some, that’s a positive. For others, it’s a negative. In general, a click pawl reel is not for you if you like a silent reel. Personally, I think it’s a beautiful sound, but it’s certainly not quiet and that can be a negative for some.
Click pawl also means there is very little drag as discussed previously. Don’t buy this reel if you want a reel with a strong disc drag system. The Marquis drag, even at full strength, is still extremely light. Only enough to keep the reel from “back-spooling” when line is pulled out quickly. When it comes to trout fishing, especially smaller water, I don’t believe drag is necessary. Still, some fly fisherman can’t imagine not having it. Consider the Hardy Sovereign if you’d like a vintage style Hardy reel that incorporates a disc drag. Hardy has just reintroduced them, though I haven’t used one yet.
Conclusion
The Hardy Marquis was a main stay for Hardy reels for a long time. It is a simple, vintage style click and pawl reel that is made with modern quality. It is the reel I use every time I cast my 3-weight fly rod. For many years I enjoyed great and successful fishing using it with my 5-weight. I’ve since upgraded to a Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect for my 5-weight, which is my absolute favorite reel. Even with having the Narrow Spool Perfect, I still break out my larger Marquis once in a while in certain situations. It’s a reel I don’t mind lending to other people because of its durability. I don’t mind if it gets dinged-up a bit.
You’re sure to remember the Scientific Angler System One reels if you’re as old as I am. You might even have had one yourself. If so, and if you enjoyed it as much as I did mine, give the Hardy Marquis a try – for old times’ sake.
To find out pricing and to order a Hardy Marquis, or any of the other reels mentioned in this article (Hardy Narrow Spool Perfect, Hardy Sovereign, Ross Colorado, Abel TR, Sage Click, Orvis C.F.O. III, Orvis Battenkill), click the Trident Fly Fishing link below.